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As Healthsouth goes south, firms go into the toilet by Paul B.W. Miller and Paul R. Bahnson We don

Question:

SAG TIMEBOMB TICKING HOLLYWOOD (Variety) – An emergency meeting has been set for Sept. 5 at which the full board of the Screen Actors Guild ( news – web sites) is expected to deliver the ultimatum that the industry has long feared: union members will face discipline — even expulsion — if they sign with a talent agency that refuses to operate under SAG’s now-expired "master franchise agreement," which has governed actor-agent relations in Hollywood since 1939. Trying to punish you for their failures in life. The Starmaker Why does SAG feel they have to kick actors ass everytime they are unable to get what they want from everyone else? Aren’t you’re tired of that?? Isn’t it time to get rid of your union??? Before the union gets rid of you! http://www.nrtw.org/d/decert.htm

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SAG TIMEBOMB TICKING HOLLYWOOD (Variety) – An emergency meeting has been set for Sept. 5 at which the full board of the Screen Actors Guild ( news – web sites) is expected to deliver the ultimatum that the industry has long feared: union members will face discipline — even expulsion — if they sign with a talent agency that refuses to operate under SAG’s now-expired "master franchise agreement," which has governed actor-agent relations in Hollywood since 1939. Trying to punish you for their failures in life. The Starmaker Why does SAG feel they have to kick actors ass everytime they are unable to get what they want from everyone else? Aren’t you’re tired of that?? Isn’t it time to get rid of your union??? Before the union gets rid of you! http://www.nrtw.org/d/decert.htm

Plus, if SAG succeeds on their own, actors *still* get punished! It’s no wonder that SAG stands for The Screw Actors Guild (SAG)!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SAG TIMEBOMB TICKING HOLLYWOOD (Variety) – An emergency meeting has been set for Sept. 5 at which the full board of the Screen Actors Guild ( news – web sites) is expected to deliver the ultimatum that the industry has long feared: union members will face discipline — even expulsion — if they sign with a talent agency that refuses to operate under SAG’s now-expired "master franchise agreement," which has governed actor-agent relations in Hollywood since 1939. Trying to punish you for their failures in life. The Starmaker Why does SAG feel they have to kick actors ass everytime they are unable to get what they want from everyone else? Aren’t you’re tired of that?? Isn’t it time to get rid of your union??? Before the union gets rid of you! http://www.nrtw.org/d/decert.htm Plus, if SAG succeeds on their own, actors *still* get punished! It’s no wonder that SAG stands for The Screw Actors Guild (SAG)!

Actors Union Steps Up Pressure on Agents Thu Aug 22, 4:23 AM ET By Dave McNary HOLLYWOOD (Variety) – The Screen Actors Guild (SAG) has lit the fuse. It’s a short one. An emergency meeting has been set for Sept. 5 at which the full SAG board is expected to deliver the ultimatum that the industry has long feared: Union members will face discipline — even expulsion — if they sign with a talent agency that refuses to operate under SAG’s now-expired "master franchise agreement," which has governed actor-agent relations in Hollywood since 1939. In other words, actors may have to choose between their guild and their agent — for many, a nightmare scenario. And the town’s top agents are livid. "Everyone will freak out over this," said one agency chief. "They want the agents to sign, but sign what? There’s no deal on the table," said another. "It’s Vietnam," said one high-ranking labor executive. "SAG won’t bend. Neither will the agencies." The hostilities arise from an April vote when the union’s 98,000 members shot down a proposal to relax the master franchise agreement, which would have allowed the agents to forge ownership ties with production companies and advertising agencies. Actors feared they would end up working for the agents instead of the other way around. With the agreement’s expiration, agents are now free to negotiate new terms with their clients. Some have signed actors to General Service Agreements allowing agents to commission all actor revenues and extending the term of contracts longer than the typical one year. Enforcement of any SAG discipline won’t start until Jan. 1. Between now and then both sides will surely launch a fusillade of arguments buttressing their side. Though industry insiders have been hopeful for a compromise, the growing muscle of hard-liners within SAG has thwarted their efforts. Their hand was strengthened in mid April when SAG members voted down a revamp of SAG’s master franchise agreement. SAG president Melissa Gilbert and SAG CEO Bob Pisano favored the revamp but hard-liners won the day. Meanwhile talent agents, who once eyed the major ad agencies as potential investors, realize that these monoliths are in no position now to launch into acquisitions. Not only are ad agency shares tumbling, but investigations also are underway into their accounting practices. In short, the talent agencies may not be able to find any likely buyers short-term even if they are ultimately allowed to.

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For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???

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My hand writing is terrible and I would like to print my bank checks with a laser printer instead. I found a company that will create custom printed laser checks with all of the bank codes and personal info. However software packages like quickbooks, microsoft money are costly and are far more than what I need. All I need is a software package that will just print the date, amount, worded amount, and "for" columns from my text input. Can anyone recommend a simple software package that will allow me to do this.

The freeware version of CheckPrinter5.0 might meet your requirements. You can read the description and download at: http://download.cnet.com/downloads/0-10016-100-6804042.html?tag=st.dl…

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For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself.

Sorry, I’m with consumerbot.  If a guy can afford to spend the $40+ on custom printed laser checks, he can afford $20 for a no brainer home finance program.  If the guy is living from paycheck to paycheck, he will make do with crummy handwritten checks !

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For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself. Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???   This is in the context of a gentleman who is planning to use custom printed laser checks merely because his "hand writing is terrible". Try to pay attention and not interject your own personal issues into the thread.

Buzz off, hairy bear. I’ll decide for myself when to interject and how.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself. Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???   This is in the context of a gentleman who is planning to use custom printed laser checks merely because his "hand writing is terrible". Try to pay attention and not interject your own personal issues into the thread.

Close mouth before posting, Bot… the bear was trying to defend you. Buzz off, hairy bear. I’ll decide for myself when to interject and how.

– This space left intentionally blank.

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For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself. Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???

If money is that tight, I could suggest a good way to save $15 – $20 per month, but if you took that advice, you wouldn’t be here, would you? — This space left intentionally blank.

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My hand writing is terrible and I would like to print my bank checks with a laser printer instead. I found a company that will create custom printed laser checks with all of the bank codes and personal info. However software packages like quickbooks, microsoft money are costly and are far more than what I need. All I need is a software package that will just print the date, amount, worded amount, and "for" columns from my text input. Can anyone recommend a simple software package that will allow me to do this.

I think I’ve got an old version of Quicken around, its likely to be a couple to three years old. It will certainly do for what you need it for.   If you are interested, let me know via email and I will look for it and send it to you. Include a mailing address. I think it’s Quicken 99.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For some people it is. If you have never had the chance to live paycheck to paycheck, or have to decide on food or medicine, then just appreciate the good fortune you have, and keep your a**-hole comments to yourself. Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???   This is in the context of a gentleman who is planning to use custom printed laser checks merely because his "hand writing is terrible". Try to pay attention and not interject your own personal issues into the thread. Close mouth before posting, Bot… the bear was trying to defend you.

Sorry, Bearhair, my mistake. The top-posting threw me off. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Buzz off, hairy bear. I’ll decide for myself when to interject and how.

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My hand writing is terrible and I would like to print my bank checks with a laser printer instead. I found a company that will create custom printed laser checks with all of the bank codes and personal info. However software packages like quickbooks, microsoft money are costly and are far more than what I need. All I need is a software package that will just print the date, amount, worded amount, and "for" columns from my text input. Can anyone recommend a simple software package that will allow me to do this.

Quicken or MS Money is two expensive at $20???

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. . . I would like to print my bank checks with a laser printer instead. I found a company that will create custom printed laser checks with all of the bank codes and personal info. However software packages like quickbooks, microsoft money are costly and are far more than what I need. All I need is a software package that will just print the date, amount, worded amount, and "for" columns from my text input.

You may be able to buy an obsolete copy of Quicken for $10 to $20:  and would have to instal it and set up a dummy account in order to write cheques;  but it would then serve your purpose.  (Quicken is also good software for household or investment accounting.) — Donald Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) 613 822 0734

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My hand writing is terrible and I would like to print my bank checks with a laser printer instead. I found a company that will create custom printed laser checks with all of the bank codes and personal info. However software packages like quickbooks, microsoft money are costly and are far more than what I need. All I need is a software package that will just print the date, amount, worded amount, and "for" columns from my text input. Can anyone recommend a simple software package that will allow me to do this.

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Question:

You want to be a TeleCommuter?  Try "Telecommuting Job Opportunities": http://www.tjobs.com/jobopps.htm Joe Morris eBusiness Sales Consultant http://www.icode.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am curious as to whether there are opportunities to earn an income from undertaking professional accounting / tax work on the internet.  I am interested in discovering whether I can obtain training and employment in the US while living in Australia. I wish to work for an accounting practice located in the US. I would prepare taxation returns and undertake other accounting work. However I would be located in Australia and all my work and other communications for the accounting business would be via the internet. Can anyone assist me in identifying accounting businesses which are interested in this type of arrangement? Alternatively, where can I obtain more information on accounting businesses which are interested in this type of arrangement? Finall, what professional qualifications do I require? Any advice / assistance would be appreciated.

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I am curious as to whether there are opportunities to earn an income from undertaking professional accounting / tax work on the internet.  I am interested in discovering whether I can obtain training and employment in the US while living in Australia. I wish to work for an accounting practice located in the US. I would prepare taxation returns and undertake other accounting work. However I would be located in Australia and all my work and other communications for the accounting business would be via the internet. Can anyone assist me in identifying accounting businesses which are interested in this type of arrangement? Alternatively, where can I obtain more information on accounting businesses which are interested in this type of arrangement? Finall, what professional qualifications do I require? Any advice / assistance would be appreciated.

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Question:

Hi Does anyone have knowledge of where I could get/buy opt-in email lists for Certified Public Accountants and Accountants, especially those that have a Practice of their own? Any hints or link opportunities (reciprocal or otherwise) or pay- per-visitor pointers are very welcome. Best wishes — Harry K Free information service on CPA marketing http://www.cpamarketingtips.com

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Harry, I’d suggest going to www.cpaonline.com and talking with them. Best wishes, Terri Firebaugh Image Depends on the PR Company You Keep www.yourprteam.com

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Question:

I have a Shurflo 200 series water pump that’s giving me trouble after I tried winterizing the water system. Here’s what I did: Drained hot water heater. Ran faucets with pump on until water stopped coming out. I forgot about the relief valve on the water heater so I had to finish draining it. I drained the holding tank and then disconnected the hose that exits the holding tank and leads into the water pump (there’s a break in the line just for this, I suppose). I then put the hose that leads to the water pump into the anti-freeze jug, then turned on the pump. Nothing happened. The pump didn’t take any anti-freeze out of the jug. So I decided to try it by pouring the anti-freeze into the holding tank and then powering on the water pump. So I econnected everything and did that. Still nothing happened. No water came out of the faucets when I turned them on and the pump just continues to run. It’s not pressurizing. So I checked all the lines again for leaks. Checked the valves (has three for draining). Still it wouldn’t pressurize. So I decided to see if it would pressurize if I hooked up the water line (hose) from my home. I did that, it filled up the hot water heater and all the faucets worked. I turned on the water pump and it didn’t come on (because the system was pressurized). I then disconnected the hose from the house and tried the water pump. It just ran and ran. It didn’t pressurize the system. I’m guessing I have a bad water pump??? Or maybe I need to prime it??? How much suction do these pumps have? This Shurflo is rated at 3 gals. per minute. When I disconnect the line going into it and turn the pump on, I can put my finger up to the inlet and it doesn’t feel like it has much, if any, suction. Right now I have the system drained and I’m going to blow out the lines. I don’t have a bypass on the hot water heater, but if I have to order a pump I might as well get one. Thanks in advance for your help. — Rich D.  KC0CHJ EBS & DakotaMade.com http://www.DakotaMade.com http://www.DakotaMade.com/EBS

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Rich, Sounds exactly what happened to us with our new motorhome.  We had winterized before heading south and filled the tank after reaching warmer weather.  The pump would not prime. We called CoachNet and were told to open all faucets and run the pump until it started pumping.  They said it could take a half hour or more.  35 minutes later we had water and no problems in the next 3 months on the road. We had been worried about running the pump dry for that long but they told us it would not hurt the pump.  Now, almost a year later, the pump is still working fine. Happy RVing, Skip & Sharon control. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I have a Shurflo 200 series water pump that’s giving me trouble after I tried winterizing the water system. Here’s what I did: Drained hot water heater. Ran faucets with pump on until water stopped coming out. I forgot about the relief valve on the water heater so I had to finish draining it. I drained the holding tank and then disconnected the hose that exits the holding tank and leads into the water pump (there’s a break in the line just for this, I suppose). I then put the hose that leads to the water pump into the anti-freeze jug, then turned on the pump. Nothing happened. The pump didn’t take any anti-freeze out of the jug. So I decided to try it by pouring the anti-freeze into the holding tank and then powering on the water pump. So I econnected everything and did that. Still nothing happened. No water came out of the faucets when I turned them on and the pump just continues to run. It’s not pressurizing. So I checked all the lines again for leaks. Checked the valves (has three for draining). Still it wouldn’t pressurize. So I decided to see if it would pressurize if I hooked up the water line (hose) from my home. I did that, it filled up the hot water heater and all the faucets worked. I turned on the water pump and it didn’t come on (because the system was pressurized). I then disconnected the hose from the house and tried the water pump. It just ran and ran. It didn’t pressurize the system. I’m guessing I have a bad water pump??? Or maybe I need to prime it??? How much suction do these pumps have? This Shurflo is rated at 3 gals. per minute. When I disconnect the line going into it and turn the pump on, I can put my finger up to the inlet and it doesn’t feel like it has much, if any, suction. Right now I have the system drained and I’m going to blow out the lines. I don’t have a bypass on the hot water heater, but if I have to order a pump I might as well get one. Thanks in advance for your help. — Rich D.  KC0CHJ EBS & DakotaMade.com http://www.DakotaMade.com http://www.DakotaMade.com/EBS

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[snippity] I’m guessing I have a bad water pump??? Or maybe I need to prime it??? How much suction do these pumps have?

I had a similar problem. Even though the intake was under water when I showed 1/4 tank full, it would’t [prime. Finally, after the water tank was over 3/4 full it  primed an started pumping water. My guess is that the pump didn't have enough vacuum to lift the water from the very bottom of the tank,  but it had enough vacuum to lift water from the top of the filled up tank. George C Remove the  "deleteme and dot" from my address to e-mail me. Personal homepage:     http://nortons.home.mindspring.com Dr Thokes Charter Fishing:   http://drthoke.8m.com

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I have a Shurflo 200 series water pump that's giving me trouble after I tried winterizing the water system. Here's what I did: <<snip I'm guessing I have a bad water pump??? Or maybe I need to prime it??? How much suction do these pumps have?

<<snip         Usually, this problem is due to a bad valve body in the pump (the rubber dries out, the valves don't seal very well, and the pump won't prime- other indications are the pump not wanting to shut off). Another problem is the swashplate has screws that sometimes get loose.         But.....         That said, I never try to sell someone something they don't need (much to my accountants' dismay), but in this case, if it was me, I would put in a new ShurFlo model 2088 pump.         The new models have a much improved valve body design, along with better material (buna rubber- more resistant to clorine). This is one of the things that the new ones are so much better than the old design that it is really better just to replace it (IMHO).         Also- the specs call for the pump to be capable of a 6 ft. vertical prime- it may take a while, but in good shape, it'll do it. Chris Bryant Bryant RV Services

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I have a Shurflo 200 series water pump that's giving me trouble after I tried winterizing the water system. Here's what I did: Drained hot water heater. Ran faucets with pump on until water stopped coming out. I forgot about the relief valve on the water heater so I had to BIG SNIP ABOUT THE PUMP NOT PRIMING minute. When I disconnect the line going into it and turn the pump on, I can put my finger up to the inlet and it doesn't feel like it has much, if any, suction.

If I understand you correctly you ran the pump until it sucked air and then it wouldn't pick up antifreeze?  If this is the case then I suggest there is likely nothing wrong with your pump but it does need to be primed.  Connecting the system to external water pressure won't solve the problem because there is a slug of air in your RV system between the city inlet and the pump.  What I would suggest is to put some water or antifreeze in the freshwater tank and lightly pressurize that tank.  You could do something exotic with an airhose wedged into the water inlet with a regulator to control the pressure but what I would try first is just blowing on the inlet.  Jam a hose in the water inlet (fill inlet for the fresh tank in other words), stuff a rag in around it to make sure the seal is airtight, turn on the pump in the RV, wrap your lips around the hose and blow for all you're worth.   Right now I have the system drained and I'm going to blow out the lines. I don't have a bypass on the hot water heater, but if I have to order a pump I might as well get one.

You may need one but I don't think so.   To avoid this situation in the future don't run the pump dry.  Drain the freshwater tank but DON'T RUN THE PUMP.  Hook the pump up with whatever hose arrangement you use to draw anti-freeze into the system. Personally I prefer to set up some tee's and valves so I can easily switch from the fresh tank to the anti-freeze jug but do whatever works for you.  Don't turn on the pump in the RV until you are actually ready to suck anti-freeze into the system.  That way the water in the pump will keep it primed as it draws the antifreeze in.

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I would recommend rigging a vent line on the pump suction line to allow the pump to prime with the water/antifreeze. With the vent line open and water lined up to the pump suction, start the pump and when water issues from the pump, shut the vent line. Jeff * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!

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[snippity] I’m guessing I have a bad water pump??? Or maybe I need to prime it??? How much suction do these pumps have? This Shurflo is rated at 3 gals. per minute. When I disconnect the line going into it and turn the pump on, I can put my finger up to the inlet and it doesn’t feel like it has much, if any, suction. Right now I have the system drained and I’m going to blow out the lines. I don’t have a bypass on the hot water heater, but if I have to order a pump I might as well get one.

I have three of those pumps, two on catering trailers and one on the RV.  They all behave similarly so I feel safe in generalizing here. I’ve found them to be incapable of priming themselves with even a few inches’ lift if there is any pressure at all on the outlet. I’ve also found that the intake valves tend to stick, requiring a disassembly.  Pretty much any debris in the water will stick in the intake valve. I have installed vent valves right on the outlets of the pumps to allow me to reestablish prime if the pump loses it.  I simply open the valve and let the pump run till water comes out.  I still end up having to disassemble each pump an average of once a year to unstick the valves. Another problem I’ve had with two of the pumps is the field magnets coming unglued from the motor frame.  They then drag on the armature, slowing the pump and causing high current draw.  My permanent repair has consisted of thorough cleaning of the frame and magnets followed by gluing them back in place using urethane wood glue.  This stuff is super strong and quite heat resistant.  I hold the 2-piece frame together with a pipe clamp while pressing the magnets against the frame with an inflated balloon stuck where the armature goes.  Note that the magnets span the frame halves. If you install a magnet in each half (hey, looks correct) the motor won’t run.  Important to get the magnets back in the correct place to avoid excess current draw and commutator burning. John — John De Armond http://neonjohn.4mg.com Neon John’s Custom Neon Cleveland, TN "Bendin’ Glass ‘n Passin’ Gas"

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Question:

David Henry asked…     Quick question for Excel users.  Is there a way to format a cell to show percentage calculations but not show the % sign, it seems as though there should be but it is not as obvious as the same type of change for accounting or currency formats

Do you mean to show (for example) the decimal number 0.14 as "14.0" instead of "14.0%"?  I can’t think  of an easy way to do that, but a quick workaround would be to actually enter the number 14.0 in the cell and have any formulas that reference that "percentage" divide that cell by 100.

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That’s what I do.

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    Quick question for Excel users.  Is there a way to format a cell to show percentage calculations but not show the % sign, it seems as though there should be but it is not as obvious as the same type of change for accounting or currency formats thanks David

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    Quick question for Excel users.  Is there a way to format a cell to show percentage calculations but not show the % sign, it seems as though there should be but it is not as obvious as the same type of change for accounting or currency formats thanks David Why don’t you just create a formula whereby each cell is divided by

100.  This is a backdoor way to achieve the same result. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Question:

Re Lin Electric’s Acctg. Software locking up after processing their Year End at 11/30/98, the problem was most likely NOT caused by their Acctg. Software because the new Fiscal Period that the Year End processing would have created would end on 11/30/99 – still not into the Year 2000. More likely, something went wrong during the year end processing or a file was already corrupted before they started the Year End processing.

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Hello all,   Ran across this story and wondering if this is an isolated case? STILL A YEAR TO TACKLE THE Y2K BUG? THINK AGAIN Like many chief executives, Lindon T. Taylor figured he had all of this year to wrestle with the infamous Year 2000 bug. Then just before Christmas, his company, Lin Electric in Bluefield, W. Va., closed its books on fiscal 1998, ended in November, and tried to open fiscal 1999. Oops. Not only did Lin Electric’s computer crash but also the accounting system from Cougar Mountain Software Inc. locked up so tight it couldn’t be restarted. REF: http://www.businessweek.com/bwdaily/dnflash/jan1999/nf90104d.htm Thanks in advance for letting me know if this is a general problem. -Art- Arthur Bouchard Suite101.com Editor Y2K and YOU http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/y2k_and_you

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Question:

Anyone know that interesting histories of the accounting terms ‘credit’ and ‘debit’?

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Anyone know that interesting histories of the accounting terms ‘credit’ and ‘debit’?

My understanding is that the are the anglicized versions of the Italian.

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Question:

I use sparkaloid regularly and have had good results mixing 1Tbs in a quart container. Microwave 3 min, Stir thoroughly and microwave another 3 min. Stir and add as you wine is being racked. Do be careful not to inhale it as it is a very fine and easily inhaled powder.I’ve never had acceptable results from bentonite-Just my experience.

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I’m about ready to bottle my first batch of wine, and would appreciate advice on fining techniques/chemicals.  I have some Bentonite, but it seems a somewhat crude method of fining (it’s essentially clay, right?). Also, the label on the Alexander’s kit I’m using mentions Bentonite at the beginning of the process, but recommends using sparkaloid just before bottling.  

Yes it is a somewhat crude but widely used fining agent at this time. It is essentially a "claylike" substance a  hydrated aluminium silicate with exchangeable cations that allows it to bond with unstable proteins that may cause haziness and other problems such as oxidation and associated problems. What are the advantages of sparkaloid and how is it used?  Thanks for anyadvice! Sparkaloid in the context you have suggested may be used as a counterfining agent. Cleaning up any excess bentonite, by aiding in the precipitation and compaction of the bentonite. Kiesolsol or gelatin may also be used, however gelatin has a higher potential risk of overfining. I have never used sparkaloid but the manufacturers instructions should detail the procedure for its use.     (BTW, please excuse any misuse of terminology; my understanding is that "fining" is essentially the same as "clearing"–i.e., getting rid of the cloudy look that wine has at this stage).

Clearing in this context means the same as fining although in my experience it is not a term widely used in winemaking. Clarification and stabilisation are more widely used terms. I would suggest you pick up a book  from a good library (such as; Production Wine Analysis, 1990. Ed./Author Zoecklien, B et al.) if you want to know what fining or clarification you should be doing. In general fining and stabilisatin are the most complex procedures in winemaking due to the number of potential causes of haze in wine and thus the potential number of remedial actions. You should try and establish what is causing the haze, set up a trial with some of your wine and with a range of remedial actions (with differing concentrations of the fining agent) and from the trials decide on what course of action you will take with the rest of your wine, after carefully tasting and viewing the resulting wine (with a torch). All fining agents have adv’s and disadv’s .  for example bentonite may cause excessive lees as well as the loss of flavour and colour compounds, but it tends to be the best agent in terms of overall clarification and stabilisation in wine. Overall be conservative with addition of any fining agents and set up a trial if you do not want the risk of spoiling your precious drops. I hope this is of some help. Regards, Ben

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Bentonite…"crude" ?  "Essentially clay" ?   We’re all essentially clay (see Genesis)  And "Rutherford Dust" adds several dollars a bottle out here in the Napa Valley. Bentonite is what yeast likes to dance with, and in matters of this sort, there is no accounting for taste. Bentonite can be added at any time, before, during or after fermentation. As long as you don’t over do it, so as to strip color and flavor, it is a nice, benign, gentle, basic universal fining agent, often all you need. If it does not do all you want done, then Sparkolloid, which has the opposite electrical charge, is a logical next step. Bentonite is easy to use, can be kept on hand in a slurry of one ounce of dry Bentonite to 28 ounces of water, and does not spoil, since it contains no nutrients. One ounce of the slurry will give you 1 gram of Bentonite  per gallon of wine. Sparkolloid, conversely, is a real pain to use, has to be simmered like soup for 30 minutes, stirred frequently, and added to the wine hot and rapidly. 1/2 to 1 tsp of dry Sparkolloid per gallon is the usual dose.   It also forms fluffy sediment, not the nice compact sticky sediment you get from Bentonite. Careful racking is required, and some lees loss is expected. But it does produce brilliant wine in almost every case, when it follows Bentonite. Greatferm

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I’m about ready to bottle my first batch of wine, and would appreciate advice on fining techniques/chemicals.  I have some Bentonite, but it seems a somewhat crude method of fining (it’s essentially clay, right?). Also, the label on the Alexander’s kit I’m using mentions Bentonite at the beginning of the process, but recommends using sparkaloid just before bottling.   What are the advantages of sparkaloid and how is it used?  Thanks for any advice! (BTW, please excuse any misuse of terminology; my understanding is that "fining" is essentially the same as "clearing"–i.e., getting rid of the cloudy look that wine has at this stage).

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